photo (the first two) credits to Roby (yes, he did make me design his entire blog so I could use his photos)
I love doing adventurous things.
I've touched the Eiffel Tower, gone on rollercoasters, visited Stone Henge, played in the ocean for countless hours, hiked up many mountains, and sat on an alligator. Last Saturday, my friend and her family picked me up in their big red van and took us to the beach for a couple hours of surfing! I was so excited and nervous. I think I did okay, but I pretty much only went on my knees, and was on my feet for 1/4 of a second, till I belly flopped in the water. Paddling out to the waves was definitely the HARDEST part. My arms felt like wet noodles the entire time, and felt so for days after!
After that, I rode about 4 or 5 more waves on my feet. It's such an amazing and fun feeling! The waves started getting pretty choppy, and I had a hard time finding a good wave to ride. So, I paddled back in, handed my board to one of my friend's younger siblings, and just played in the ocean, talking and swimming around. I got to go back out again, but the waves were no good. It had gotten increasingly windier, and I just couldn't find any good waves. It was really frustrating. I only got 1 at the end, when I was paddling back in, and rode it for a second before falling into the water. But, I did it, and I was so happy.
I am so thankful that now I can at least say I know how to surf, and I have caught a few waves! :) I just wish I could go again tomorrow!
blog post! That is so sweet of you!
Mahalo for reading!